Fighting the Frost
A Virginia winery's community springs to action in a time of need.
On April 9th, winegrowers across Central Virginia braced for a spring frost.
Mount Airy, where the Jordan brothers grow grapes for their wine label, Midland, expected a low of 25°F by sunrise. Their Chardonnay vines had already started budburst, with 50% of the buds sprouting one or two leaves. Blaufränkisch had the next highest growth rate at 30%. Freezing temperatures would be detrimental this early in the growing season.
Nearly a dozen volunteers arrived at 3 AM. We split into pairs with headlamps and grill lighters. 300 mulch piles had been placed among the three acres of vines (A cost-effective though somewhat more dangerous alternative to the commonly used paraffin candles). Our task for the next several hours? To pace the vineyard rows, keep the mulch burning, and patrol the flames.
By sunrise, a thick layer of smoke enveloped the hillside. We finally called it quits when the fire department arrived. Our efforts kept the vineyard’s temperature above 30°F and saved 90% of the vines’ plant life.
“That's amazing relative to what we could have lost,” says Tim Jordan, who lives at Mount Airy and oversees the winegrowing.
The Jordan brothers did a decade of experimental grape growing before deciding what to plant in the ‘Midland Block.’ In 2016, “we were still of the mindset that Vinifera was the way to go,” says Tim. “What we weren't prepared for was the next 10 years.”
There was always some risk of spring frost, given Mount Airy’s high elevation in the Shenandoah Valley, but the stakes have only intensified with climate change. Any major losses due to frost, drought, hurricanes, or otherwise could mean the difference between producing another vintage.
The best way to support Midland is to sign up for their Wine-Share
Many of the volunteers present have also been involved in “Learning Vines,” a hands-on educational series led by Tim. It’s a chance for them to learn about the life cycle of grape vines while building community.
After fighting the frost, we celebrated our victory with a bonfire breakfast.
Below are some photos from that morning, captured by BJ Poss: 1
Amid the chaos, I found a renewed appreciation for sunrises and people who show up in times of need. What came up for you?
Note: This piece was originally written for Common Wealth Crush’s May newsletter.